Planning a trip to Cartagena, Colombia . . .

If you are a recent visitor, your recommendations/input welcome for: best time of year to visit, how to stay safe, best place to exchange money, best hotels and restaurants, best tourist attractions, and whether I should add side-trips such as Las Islas del Rosario, Playa Blanca, or Volcan de Lodo el Totumo.

I am no longer into the bar scene and wish to avoid second-hand smoke, so should I avoid the artsy neighborhood of Getsemani altogether?

Thanks for your input.

David Naccari